Every job below is one we do ourselves across Elizabeth.
We frame new decks with pressure-treated joists on 16-inch centers, set on concrete footings poured below New Jersey's frost line so the structure doesn't heave in winter. Decking goes down last, whether that's cedar, pressure-treated pine or composite, and boards are spaced to let water drain instead of pool.
Most repair calls start with one soft board or a rail that moves when you lean on it, and by the time we get there rot has usually spread into the joist underneath. We replace what's actually failed, sister a joist if it's split, and re-bolt the ledger board if that's where water's been getting in.
Sun and rain gray out a deck's surface in a couple of seasons, and once the wood starts cupping, water sits in the grain instead of running off it. We pressure wash at low pressure so we don't blow out the fibers, let it dry a few days, then apply a penetrating stain and sealer.
Some decks just need one clear plan, wraparound stairs, a bench along the rail, or a lower level for a hot tub. We lay out beam spans and post spacing on paper first, so you know how it'll look and hold up before we cut any lumber.
Composite boards don't rot, splinter or need re-staining, which matters if you don't want to spend a weekend every other spring on the deck. It does expand and contract more with heat than wood, so gap spacing and hidden fastener placement have to be set right the first time.
Wood, aluminum and cable rail all handle differently, and each needs its own baluster spacing to meet code, four inches between pickets in most New Jersey towns. Posts get set through the rim joist, not just screwed to the decking, because that's the difference between a rail that holds and one that gives when someone leans on it.
If the frame underneath is still solid but the boards are cracked, cupped or full of old screw holes, we strip the decking and leave the joists and posts alone. It's a faster job than a full rebuild and usually costs less, as long as the framing passes inspection first.
A deck that bounces when you walk on it usually has an undersized beam or a joist that's split near the ledger. We check span tables against what's actually holding the deck up, and add blocking or a second beam where the original framing came up short.
Some decks are past saving, rotted ledger, rusted hangers, posts sitting in dirt instead of on a footing. We tear it down, haul the lumber and old hardware off the property, and get the ground ready if you're building new.
We also frame covered porches and small additions off the back of a house, same footings-and-framing work as a deck, just roofed over. If you're not sure whether you want a porch or a deck, we'll walk the yard with you and talk through both before you commit to either.
Four steps, and no surprises in any of them.
You tell us what you want doing, we look at what is actually there, and we ask the awkward questions early.
In writing, itemised, free. If something might add cost later we flag it now rather than at the end.
Same crew throughout. We cover your floors, keep the dust down and tidy up before we leave each day.
You point out anything you are not happy with and we fix it before the invoice, not after.
Available for deck installation, repair and staining across this area.
Questions that come up once a deck project is actually underway.
Describe the problem and we will tell you what it probably is. No obligation.